Bummed about not getting the bike started, I decided I should work on what I have in my hands and can do something about. Wiring.
I did a full rewire set up for kick only. The only thing I lack to finish the harness is the lights portion of the loom. Since those run directly from my fuse panel, it won't take but a few minutes to wire up. Here's a quick run down of components I used, and an explanation for each one. Some of this may be common knowledge, but maybe it will help someone out there that is intimidated by wiring or just getting started. Also, stock replacement components or even used parts can be pricey. Most of the components I use are inexpensive parts that can be purchased at stores you can physically go to. That means if you break down, a part is just around the corner.
I have used a keyed ignition switch from Tractor Supply intended for a Ford tractor with good success over the years, so it was a no brainer. SKU number 0236570 It costs $15.99, and so far I have yet to have one fail on me. Usually I de-solder the connections and use my own spades to connect. I am sure these are just re-branded units, but I have a TSC right down the block from my house.
Another item I like to use for a new wiring harness is a Buss ATC Fuse Panel with 6 connections Item number 15600-06-02. You run your main power through the post, and out through each terminal you run power to the lights or any accessory in your loom. Having six connections usually leaves a couple spots to hold some spares, and it's super simple to mount. I got mine through AutoZone, but you can get these at just about any parts store. Rough cost of $7-10.
I also run an inline fuse from the battery positive to the key switch for an extra bit of safety. Any parts store should have one, and usually for less than $4.
The Radio Shack rectifier has been discussed before a lot, but it couldn't hurt to lump it all in anyways. Item number 276-1185 25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier for $3.49. Cheap enough you can carry a spare without your wallet even knowing, and in stock at the store.
+ to battery
- to ground
~ white and yellow combined
The ~ connections can be switched, so you can't get them mixed up.
The battery I chose is a 12v SLA 4.5ah from ebay for $13.94 shipped. The dimensions are 4"H x 3.5"L x 2.75W. I have run as small as 2.2ah before without issue and could go smaller, but figured since I had the room I could go a bit bigger. This battery will not provide enough juice for the starter, so it is a kick only application. I have used 7ah before for starters, but your bike will need to be well tuned and a quick starter, as they run out of juice quick.
On to the light switch setup. Usually I would use a DPDT on/off/on switch to control the lights. It has 6 terminals, so I would normally run a brake light power lead to both on positions on one side, while putting a hi/lo to the other on connections. Unfortunately the cb350 doesn't charge too well with the headlight on all the time, so I want to run a simple SPST on/off for the tail light and a 3 terminal SPDT on/off/on for the head light. Each switch is needed so that if I am low on battery juice, I can get every ounce of power to the coils by cutting all power to the lights. Each switch will run you roughly $3-10.
I will use the stock regulator and coils, but if the stock coils go out, I will run a pair of these 12v 4.7ohm ones from z1enterprises for $14.72 each. Part number EM24-71512 For a stock points ignition these work great, and cost a considerable amount less than Dynas or a pair of junk used stockers.
That about sums it up. I'll be taking some new pics of where and how everything is mounted soon.
Here's the basic wiring diagram I used.
When building the kz400 for last years scramble, I started piecing together a three phase rectifier, since the unit that came with the bike was rusted solid to the connectors. The original plan was to use three single phase bridged rectifiers with the idea borrowed from loudhvx on the kz400 forum.
By chance, I happened to find an off the shelf 3 phase rectifier that could be shipped to my door for less than $5 from China. Usually I would be a bit skeptical, but for such a small amount of cash I figured it couldn't hurt to try one out. In the end, the purchase was well worth it, and has been running flawlessly since being installed. To find the unit, search under the following criteria for a handful of suppliers Bridge Rectifier 3 Phase Diode 35A Amp 1000V SQL35A. I ordered mine through a company called Suntek Store. Here' s a pic of what it should look like.
While the original 3 bridge would have worked fine, it is obviously more wiring to do as well as surface area used.
Wiring the setup works as follows
~ Connect each of the three yellows, and order is not important.
+ Will go to your positive lead on your battery terminal.
- Will go to ground.
It's that simple.
One more note: The terminals on this unit are larger than an average spade connector. You can get larger spades to fit, so be prepared to pick up a few at your local parts store.
Edit: After a bit of review, I have noticed this unit may also work for a cb750. Anyone care to be a guinea pig?
I need a pair of exhaust collars shown as #2 in the pic below...
Also looking for a rubber joint for the air box crossover. I have one, but obviously need two to get a good seal. Shown as #2 in the pic below...
Shoot me an email at email@example.com if you gots what I need.
Alright, I finally got the seat to a point where I'm ashamed of it. I got the balls to trim it to a somewhat symmetrical shape. It still needs some filling of low spots, but voila:
The hard lines are a little rough in the tail, but it's a decent 10-15 footer. I got into a rush to get it smooth enough to spray bomb it today. I probably should have taken a little more time with the shaping of the foam, but I just wanted to get something together. Now I just need to finish up the little details and make a seat pan insert to get to the upholstery shop. Here it is again after today's efforts:
Got a chance to clean up all the extra tabs in the seat area.
Frame horns welded up, and a better shot of the fender mounts
Air box mounted with new mounting rod. I am going to put some nice acorn nuts in place of the spiked original ones soon.
Final To Do List
1. get running
2. fiberglass seat pan
3. tail light mount
4. head light mount
5. mount mufflers
6. mount tires
7. rattle can
I want to get this beast on the road before the end of the month to start getting some test and tune mileage.
The plan from the beginning has been to get this beast running well and safe enough to drive. First order of business was to clean the carb and see whether I need just a rebuild, or find a better specimen to diddle with. All went well, minus and Idle Cut Off Valve hole being elongated ever so slightly. Hopefully I can just plug it with a standard 55 idle jet and call it done.
From here on out I would like to accomplish at least one task each week for both the Ghia and cl350 regardless of circumstance, so things can progress at a faster rate. Here's a quick idea of what it will look like in primer with the white top as well as the Sea Blue.